Blood lining

Blood lining - how, why and when?

blood lining is lining without ink to separate areas for the time you working on the tattoo and it will heal out , so if your doing negative areas of shading , and you dont want a black outline you will use a blood line

Cool, thanks!

But sometimes I see people lining something with a very ligt grey´ish that seems not to be a blood line, but also not a final outline.
Are they doing it so soft that it will disapear in the end, or how, why and when?

Hope you know what I meen

The thin grey outline for example using Silverback X2 is if you are going to have multiple sittings, this faint thin outline can act as a future stencil on for example a massive back piece which would be difficult to align a stencil each time.

Thats what I thought also.
And I do have the Silverback greywash 1, 2, 3, and 4.
What needle conf. would you recomend, handspeed, hz/speed, needledepth, etc?

I have a Cheyenne Thunder, Inkjecta V-flight 2. and Ego little V2 and Ego V3 Vertex on the way.
Cheyenne powersuply, but the Ipower on the way.

Really appreciateing your answers

Nice collection of tools you have, regarding hand speed, hz/speed, needle depth etc, I'm afraid there is not one answer, depth depends on what part of the body you are working on, speed depends on what equipment you are using, how you like your machine set and what the intended purpose is, personally I use a Micky Sharpz microdial for most of my line work, a Wayne Taylor direct drive with a 3.5mm throw for colour packing, lining of small intricate pieces, some shading and solid black, a Micky Sharpz T dial for big solid black areas and a New York Irons I picked up for £20 for B & G, regarding fancy power supplies, I still use an 11 year old bench top power supply although I do have a Junker XP200 power supply I won from Micky Sharpz which I havent used yet, you have to experiment to see what works for you, I thought about trying some Ego machines but from what I have seen and heard, their after sales service is pathetic.

Just an after thought, Hz/cycles etc are more common on coil machines, some rotaries such as the dragonfly in the technical specs can be set volts to equivalent cps, on the Ego machines the rubber power triangles regulate what give / hit you can achieve.

I agree about being a personal refference and feeling, my question should maybe have been what others do
I brought the new Ipower, so I can better monitor al my machines and not just the Thunder.
I want to keep a log of my settings, to better find my own preff.
The Ego´s I got at a really really fair price though, so not much harm done, if Im not satisfied.

(thinking about getting a couple of Micky Sharpz, remember them as being pretty easy and solid)
Do have a coil made for really heavy linework already,
tattoostuff.pl/search.php?code=bronze (bronze gun 1)

@Loulou
Reading your respons again, makes me wonder if I undestood it at all.
Can you explain it even more?
(separate areas) and (negative areas of shading)

Maybe Im stupid

I use bloodlines for realism assignments, look at a portrait for instance there are planes of values, no lines. When i stencil my pattern i completely bloodline it than fill and shade it, I only use lines in the end for details.

do you tattoo full time ?

as full time as possible . i'm not in a shop or a owner yet.

IN MY OPINION
with today stencils i dont see a need for bloodlining... except when you are doing something that you dont want lines in and your are not gonna finish in 1 day... or maybe when the stencil isnt gonna hold Throughout the whole session (rare case if you apply the stencil right)