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Colour saturation

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FadedInk
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Colour saturation Empty Colour saturation

Post by marked 4 life Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:31 am

I seem to be having a few difficulties in colour saturation and always lighter colours, for example yellow, light blue, very light green.

I mostly use a 1209 rs but now thinking of trying some 1214 rs and also use 11 mg1 & 11 cm (not decided which is better yet) I dont tend to do massive pieces.

I have analysed and changed things as I have been tattooing to see how it is going in, for example while putting in blue last night I realised my hand speed was too fast so slowed down (keep speeding up though) I started to increase the voltage which seems to suit my hand speed better but worried about going to fast and causing excessive bleeding, I cross hatched an area which then seemed to fill better than just small circles, I prefer to fill a piece with 2 passes, 3 max, with the lighter colours they can be hard to see if they are in so I tend to move on then come back to it in 5 minutes and I can see where I have missed.

Any tips from the more experienced as I feel that this is a missing piece I need to get to grips with.

I use a Wayne Taylor direct drive

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Post by FadedInk Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:50 pm

The lighter the colour, the harder it is to get it to show. That's why a lot of artists do as much as they can with the shading and black detail, and the darker colours, using the very light colours only to highlight in areas that have been intentionally left un-inked to give the light colours the best chance of showing decently. White and light colours can look quite solid when the tattoo is fresh and in the early stages of healing. But it takes the dermis layer of the skin about 3 to 4 months to fully heal and stabilize. Until then, you can't really tell what motion, depth and etc gave good results.

The only thing that I know that works for that is experience, and getting to see your work over a longer period of time.

General; advice I can give would be to plan your designs to rely mostly on the black and darker colours as much as you can, using the lighter for highlight accents. Try to only use light colours in relatively small areas that you left totally alone when shading and etc. Remember to angle any "slant" you may use so the tips of the needles aim towards the center of any area you are colouring, as much as possible/practical.


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Post by Ketchup Kid Fri Jun 03, 2016 4:16 pm

what about brand of ink, doesn't that matter too?
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Post by Whippet Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:28 pm

Have you tried a back and forth motion with a regular magnum, avoiding the circles?

It's what I went through with AJ and the coverage seems quicker and definitely more solid. Methodical movements from the elbow and definitely not the wrist, keeping penetration angle and depth at a constant.

For me it's almost like a shoving motion, like your pushing a coin forward on a flat surface, just nudging it a bit each stroke. The emphasis is on the forward stroke.

I'm only titting about on practise skins (pig and fake) but the difference from RS circular motion colour is really clear. Circular motions are what I always used before but i'm converted now. AJ's colour is really solid.


Last edited by Whippet on Sat Jun 04, 2016 12:28 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post by FadedInk Fri Jun 03, 2016 11:41 pm

@reset818: Good point, since I'm sure that brand of ink does make some difference. Hopefully marked will tell us what brand(s) he is currently trying.

Myself, I don't have much experience with modern tattoo colours. Currently I have some Kuro Sumi colours and some Radiant Tribal black. From test patches on craft foam, I can say I feel they are quite promising, but no telling for sure until I've put them in live skin and seen how they work and how they look after they heal. I can say that I think they are better than the Spaulding Sta-Glo colours I used over 20 yrs ago, but don't take that as a comment on current Spaulding inks, since decent companies are always re-formulating and improving their inks.

So I didn't feel it appropriate to talk about brands, myself. But hey, if you have had some experiences with different brands and have found some faves that are working good for you, you know we'd all like to hear about it, reset! That's what this place is for I think (hope).

Very Happy


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Post by Ketchup Kid Sat Jun 04, 2016 12:48 am

not to go off topic, but like 20 minutes ago i just got some ink i ordered last week. i don't have colors or used them but wanted to try so i bought red green and blue starbright from ebay. i heard that was one of the best brands. i got three .5 oz bottles for $12.

but i received the wrong colors, and then i got a funny feeling about buying ink in general from ebay so i googled counterfeit starbrite and a led to a starbrite fb page that had a procedure for detecting counterfeit starbrite labels, and these bottles failed the test. furthermore, none of the images of starbrite ink anywhere on the net shows these kinds of bottles.
Colour saturation Sb11


i requested a return. i don't know enough to determine if these are real or fake, but i got enough to worry about without fucking with fake ass ink.

i don't know what the best brands are yet but i just want the best shit thats tried and true and know its the real deal (i also want it at the lowest price of course).

@whippet what is AJ?
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Post by Whippet Sat Jun 04, 2016 1:29 am

AJ is a guy that Marked4life and myself did some training with
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Post by tyler300888 Sat Jun 04, 2016 8:12 am

I had the same problem with colour saturation with lighter colours and solved it by using a smaller mag. I used to use a 9 or 11mag thinking I could finish quicker, but they were too big and harder to penetrate, now use a 7 and its a lot better.
I either go in a circle motion or a back and forth motion as whippet mentioned.

I personally think brand of ink doesnt really come in to play, unless its that cheapy China shit. All decent reputable inks have the ability to put ink in nicely and like faded said, company's are always improving ink. but that's just my view/theory lol. (havent really tried many brands).

Just go slow and take your time, especially for the lighter colours. I speed up sometimes and have to remind myself to slow down and stick to a consistent speed.

Overall, as with anything to do with tattooing, I think its just a case of practice and finding what works for you.

I'm by no means one of the 'more experienced' but thought id share as I had the same problem and managed to fix it.
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Post by marked 4 life Sat Jun 04, 2016 10:31 am

Thanks for the replies guys, I use Eternal inks, I use an 11mg regularly on solid black in a back and forth and circular motion and can get that in solid and healing quickly, colour wise like I said I only really use a 9 round, thinking it is a bit small now and not quite overlapping enough for slightly bigger areas, I do have some MG7 which I will give a try on my next colour piece.

Now regarding on how fast to run my DD, I previously ran it slow (perhaps too slow in fear of causing excessive bleeding/trauma) but have since speeded it up to sometimes the same as the speed/volts I use for lining, still need to do some experimenting, I am more confident and comfortable with the speed/volts for lining with my DD now after speaking to the machine builder, I am ok on putting solid black in with my Mickey Sharpz T dial, I can get most colours in solid just need to iron out/work out a few glitches and I feel I will be almost there with techniques, running of equipment etc.

I remember the old school artist I went to in the 70's, he could put yellow ink in first time, solid with very little blood and it looked yellow, mine always looks bloodies and sometimes affects the final colour of the heal, I want bright lol!



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Post by Mack Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:40 am

I don't go any larger than a 9 mag for packing in solid color, smaller mags saturate better

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Post by marked 4 life Mon Jun 06, 2016 4:52 pm

Mack wrote:I don't go any larger than a 9 mag for packing in solid color, smaller mags saturate better
Whats your preference of mag for colour saturation Mack, MG1(weaved), MG2 (stacked), CM, bugpin, 10's, 12's etc.

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Post by Mack Tue Jun 07, 2016 2:10 am

marked 4 life wrote:
Mack wrote:I don't go any larger than a 9 mag for packing in solid color, smaller mags saturate better
Whats your preference of mag for colour saturation Mack, MG1(weaved), MG2 (stacked), CM, bugpin, 10's, 12's etc.
#12's Weaved with a short taper

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Post by marked 4 life Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:27 am

Mack wrote:
marked 4 life wrote:
Mack wrote:I don't go any larger than a 9 mag for packing in solid color, smaller mags saturate better
Whats your preference of mag for colour saturation Mack, MG1(weaved), MG2 (stacked), CM, bugpin, 10's, 12's etc.
#12's Weaved with a short taper
Thanks Mack, thats what I have in stock so will give them a go.

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Post by marked 4 life Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:08 pm

Used a 7 MG1 this afternoon, wow! wish I had tried them before, definitely without a doubt saturate much better than the 9 round I favoured before, cant wait to use it on my next tattoo on Thursday.

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Post by tyler300888 Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:43 pm

Glad you solved your issue mate. Very Happy
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